Can You Mix Paint And Polycrylic
Forgive me if I'g chirapsia a dead equus caballus, I couldn't find any topics in this category that deal with this. What do you lot lovely people prefer? I hear polycrylic is better for white furniture since it doesn't yellow. I found some Dutch Boy and some Krylon spray polycrylic that my husband happened to take. Does anyone have whatsoever feel with the spray kind? Is ane amend than the other for paint vs. stain?
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Source: https://www.ana-white.com/2010/12/polyurethane-vs-polycrylic
Posted by: yohesproas1943.blogspot.com
OkieJoe
Sat, 12/xviii/2010 - 05:17
At that place are some big differences in what polycrylic, which is a h2o based acrylic w/a little polyurethane, and generic polyurethane finishes from a content standpoint, but for sealing/providing abrasion resistance/easier cleanup, polycrylic is a really good choice over pigment. If you are staining, I'd go into more than detail on what to use, merely over paint polycrylic is a really good option. It drys to bear on quickly, although it won't be really cured for a couple of days, provides good protection, and when sprayed, lays downward a nice fifty-fifty coat that levels well. The down side to polycrylic is that you demand to wait until it'due south cured before doing anything else to the terminate <EDIT - according to the label, you can sand inside a couple of hours of spraying, only you definitely demand to await earlier>,finish sanding or polishing. Polyurethane, which is oil based, typically imparts<EDIT allows> a slight color alter to the textile it's applied over. Thats normally desired in a stained finish, just not so much in a painted 1. Also, polyurethane doesn't adhere every bit well to pigment, especially latex paint, then a light (220-400 dust) sanding before applying poly is a practiced idea. I've never tried poly over latex, so don't have any firsthand knowledge, but a general rule I follow is to utilise oil based topcoats to oil based subcoats, and water based topcoats to h2o based subcoats. There are exceptions, merely that is a safe general rule. Finishing is a whole mystery unto itself, and one that I'm all the same learning, but the general dominion in a higher place is a good one. Polycrylic over latex is a good finishing philharmonic, unless you are trying for a very high gloss, polished expect, which would be unusual in the kind of projects seen hither. If you are working on that kind of deep, liquid terminate, y'all probably already know more than than me!
solomonson
Sabbatum, 12/18/2010 - 12:34
Thanks! I'm staining, and I don't have much experience with stain. I'd like to hear your details you lot mentioned, if you have time.
OkieJoe
Sabbatum, 12/18/2010 - thirteen:49
Glad to share what little I know. Poly, whether sprayed from tin can or brushed on is a solid option over stain. Information technology volition allow the colour to come through, and requite a actually good level of protection to your new piece. Unless you have admission to (and experience with) some very expensive pro finishing equipment, poly is probably the best selection for protecting your piece of furniture. The color changes I mentioned above are usually a result of UV rays from sunlight reacting with the finish or the wood underneath the poly, since most polyurethane doesn't contain whatever UV inhibitors. Clear poly stop shouldn't make a meaning difference in the color of your slice. I'd programme on at least 3 coats of poly to build a nice protective end, with a light sanding if recommened by the manufacturer between coats. Once the final glaze has cured, maybe 3 or 4 days afterwards, y'all may want to consider waxing the piece with a paste article of furniture wax, like Johnsons Paste Wax or Briwax. This will deepen the look of the cease and requite the slice a 'glow', if you similar that look. Skilful luck with your project.
OkieJoe
Sun, 12/19/2010 - 17:thirteen
Guess I should take been more specific. Distressing
Polyurethane is a proficient choice over stain. Polycrylic will likewise work, only if I had a choice, I'd definitely utilize polyurethane. That's what I get for typing in a hurry and not re-reading my post.
tnslb
Sun, 12/xix/2010 - 19:14
Polyurethane is a proficient choice over oil-based stain ;) You tin can do water-base over oil-base, simply non oil over h2o.
thedabblingcrafter
Wed, 01/12/2011 - 10:29
Just a side note, I did Polycrylic over white paint and it yellowed actually really bad. I know that Polycrylic is supposed to exist better over white paint, simply the cease I got wasn't neat. I'm trying over with some enamel this time around.
Teemoe
Wed, 06/ten/2015 - 05:51
Which to use on an old cedar chest
I had to lightly sand an old cedar chest to get off mold residue and wanted to apply a finish to brand the colors popular back out. Would polycrylic or polyurethane exist best?
Kaybird (not verified)
Fri, 12/30/2011 - 06:08
Polyacrylic vs Polyurethane
I am painting furniture and read that you should seal information technology with a polyacrylic sealer. I use h2o-based polyurethane all the time on stained woods and prefer it over oil-based, but I'grand nevertheless not clear on whether the polyurethane I use will create a hard, protective finish coat for PAINTED forest surfaces. Trying to find out if at that place's a departure in "acrylic" vs "urethane" when applying finish over paint.
claydowling
Sun, 01/01/2012 - 17:23
Urethane vs acrylic
Polyurethane is a rather generic term. The oil based polyurethanes utilise urethane resin for the coating, which is naturally yellow. Water bourn polyurethane is sometimes called polycrylic, and uses acrylic resins for the coating. Acrylic is clear, and is the same resin used for plexiglass, such as the windows effectually a hockey rink. Information technology's super-tough, although non quite so potent as urethane resin.
The acrylic resin is dissolved in alcohol (I think ethelyene glycol), and that is thinned with water. The side of my Varathane tin can warns that this can pull upwardly nastiness from the underlying paint or things that were sitting on the surface. Any iron components, such as from steel wool or embedded in the underlying wood, can be pulled up into the terminate and volition stain in ways that are undesirable for a clear end.
At that place are another tricks I discovered recently. I put a lot of effort into getting the underlying paint layer smooth, and the acrylic gave information technology a translucent look. The Varathane product also seems quite thick. Fifty-fifty though I bought a gloss finish, information technology does not cocky-level. I got meliorate leveling with some thinning, just it seems a fiddling fussy.
decha vong (not verified)
Tue, 01/31/2012 - 08:34
polycrylic vs acrylic
My Decoupage instructions call for acrylic sealer to seal the newspaper. Can I use polycrylic instead?
claydowling
Tue, 01/31/2012 - 09:23
Polycrylic for decoupage
As far as I tin can tell polycrylic is a product proper noun from a single visitor (Full general Finishes). The polycrylic I bought from them was definitely a urethane and acrylic blend. I didn't notice any coloring issues, but I could smell urethane, and urethane is yellowish. I'd stick to the all-acrylic products like the minwax and varathane water based polyurethane if color is a business organisation.
claydowling
Midweek, 02/01/2012 - 05:fourteen
Minwax products
If you're adamant to stick with minwax, the water based finish with the blue label is acrylic. For Varathane, the water bourne finish is acrylic. General has a spectrum of water bourne products that you'll have to cull from. In their case I know the polycrylic is a blend because I tin can smell the urethane, but they besides take some other blend with more than acrylic. I haven't opened the can however to bank check the smell, then I can't say if there's any urethane or non.
claydowling
Fri, 03/02/2012 - 12:eleven
Decoupag
I'm not sure that either product would be skilful for that, although it might exist. Both products are breakable, which doesn't strike me equally ideal in a floor cloth. Urethane resin is definitely harder than acrylic resin, which ways it should habiliment improve. But it's also yellow, so you lot'll get a distinct yellow tinge to your material.
solomonson
Tue, 04/03/2012 - 13:29
Wow! I had totally forgotten
Wow! I had totally forgotten that I submitted this thread and it was one of the first results that came up when I googled "polycrylic vs. polyurethane."
Claydowling, if you happen to come dorsum by, this statement: "As far as I can tell polycrylic is a product name from a single visitor (Full general Finishes)" I institute really intriguing, given that I see "polycrylic" everywhere. It'due south not a trademarked product past GF, is it?
Then today I saw that GF carried both polycrylic and water-based polyurethane. It'southward been over a year since I submitted this and I feel simply marginally more than informed since then. I've been using Minwax polycrylic in the blueish tin can over everything since I rarely utilize oil-based products - I tried the kind in the spray tin and nearly threw it away after the outset utilize. At present I hear about waxes, pastes, tung oil, danish oil, etc etc etc along with all the water-based topcoat products that GF makes, and it'southward all really confusing.
Anyway, I'm just venting at present, though would welcome anyone who can educate me on the use of waxes.
claydowling
Tue, 04/03/2012 - 17:28
Waxes
I know that waxes tin be used as a cease, but I think it's pretty labor intensive and I know that it's quite soft without offering much protection.
I tend to use wax as a final glaze over a polyurethane. It makes the surface feel nicer and I like the await.
A book I found that cleared a lot of things up for me was Wood Finishing 101. Cost is pretty proficient correct now. I paid full price for mine.
ReyFlain
Thu, 06/11/2015 - nineteen:45
I've been using oil based
I've been using oil based polyurethane for a few years, just because I started with information technology and never looked back. Yet, it definitely adds a little tint to low-cal wood.
I saw Minwax water-based polyurethane and polycrylic. I know that the polycrylic really doesn't alter the color of the wood (this is what I've read). Question is, would this finish behave in a similar way to what I've been using? Mostly concerned with the ability to sand between coats in club to become some depth.
Thank you.
tntprovost
Thu, x/15/2015 - 05:25
Polycrylic Water Stain?
I have applied 4 coats of polycrylic to my stained Butcher Block countertop. I let the the sealer cure for a week before mounting the top to my cabinettes. Subsequently a gathereing I noticed two, what appear to be water stains on the countertop. I don't recollect anyone set glasses with condinsation on them on the surface. I also don't think that whatever hot dishes were assault information technology either but the spots remain. I idea that polycrylic sealer would seal the wood confronting bug like this. Does anyone have whatsoever ideas every bit to what could have caused these spots?
Dsilva
Tue, 08/09/2016 - 08:43
Acrylic vs eurathain
Hullo I'm painting a breakfast table as black apartment what top coat should I use? I def don't want a smoothen only I think satin sheen won't be so bad. Thanks then much